![]() ![]() Current can flow from the vehicle alternator back to the RV, but not from the SLI battery. Solid-state battery isolators utilize electrical diodes, which act like a one-way valve. These isolators are relatively trouble free, but like any mechanical device are subject to occasional failure. The solenoid doesn’t use any power in itself, other than a tiny amount when the ignition system is switched on. Another wire connects the relay to the positive post of the SLI battery, and another runs back to the RV. You simply need to find a source of power from a circuit that’s only hot when the ignition system is “on,” and run it to the relay. The solenoid isolator is relatively inexpensive-it’ll set you back less than $20. Turn the ignition system off, the relay switch opens, preventing current to flow from either the chassis to the RV, or vice versa. When your vehicle is running, current throws the switch closed to allow current to flow from your vehicle charge system back to your RV. Somewhat comparable to a vehicle starter relay, the solenoid is a big electrically operated switch. The simplest battery isolator is nothing more than an electromechanical relay. It used to be there were just two kinds of isolators now there are three. At the same time, the isolator allows your house batteries to charge up by drawing on your chassis or tow vehicle alternator. Without such isolation, your house battery and SLI battery will seek to maintain the same charge level-and if that’s too low to start your rig, you’re left in the lurch. The RV had “stolen” power from the truck battery, leaving us wandering around with a set of jumper cables, looking for a hot jump.īattery isolators do just what it sounds like: They isolate your RV “house” batteries from your vehicle’s SLI (starting-lighting-ignition) battery. After our first night on the road, a chilly one where the furnace ran during the night, we found we couldn’t start the truck up. ![]() Howard Kelsey from Tulsa, OK United StatesĪrrived as promised, exact replacement for existing switch.Īnonymous Person from San Ramon, CA United StatesĮxact form factor as 1314-200 that it replaced on my RV that had solar panels installed.On one of our earliest RV adventures, we learned the hard way about the importance of a battery isolator system. Others with on-line stores can't tell you if they really have your item in inventory or are going to have to backorder it. ASE confirmed for me on the phone that they really did have it in stock. I needed this unit to replace one in my RV that had failed. Great service - fast, friendly, responsiveĮdward Hershberg from Portland, OR United States William Efimoff from DERIDDER, LA United States Thus providing the starter system with maximum battery voltage available.Ġ of 0 people found the following review helpful: When the engine is started, the start signal causes the controller to check if the auxiliary battery is within about 0.85V of the main battery if so, the relay contact is closed. This will cause the relay to be opened shortly after the engine is stopped, attempting to preserve 100% of the starting battery capacity for engine cranking. The disconnect voltage is set to a nominal 12.8V, which is near the full charge resting voltage of the batteries. This will cause the relay to close and the charging system can charge both banks of batteries. The connect threshold is set to a nominal voltage of 13.2V, which would only be reached when the charging system is operating. If the main battery (for the 1314-200) or either batteries (for the 1315-200) are below the disconnect threshold the unit will open the relay. If the main battery (for the 1314-200) or either battery bank (for the 1315-200) is above the connect threshold, the relay connects the two banks together. The units monitor both the main and auxiliary battery banks. The 1314-200 (unidirectional) and 1315-200 (bidirectional) are 200A battery separator modules with an integrated relay for 12V systems. ![]()
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